Alexander McQueen
(1969 - 2010)
Biography
Lee Alexander McQueen was born in 1969 in East London; the son of a taxi driver and the youngest of six children (style sequel). He left school at the age of 16 and was offered an apprenticeship at the traditional Savile Row tailors Anderson and Shepard and then at neighboring Gieves and Hawkes, both masters in technical construction of clothing (Alexander McQueen). In 1990, he sought employment, teaching pattern-cutting at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design; instead, despite his lack of formal fashion training, he was offered a place in the fashion design course as a graduate student (Evans).
He was awarded the Master of Arts degree in 1992. After his graduation in 1992 McQueen founded his own fashion label, using his middle name, on the advice of the stylist, then Vogue editor, Isabella Blow. Blow was hugely influential in McQueen’s early success, buying his entire MA collection, and she went on to become his great friend and advisor (Alexander McQueen). McQueen played up to his bad-boy reputation, opening himself to accusations of misogyny in his Highland Rape collection, which featured apparently bruised and battered models staggering along an apocalyptic, heather-strewn runway (Evans).
In October he was appointed designer in chief at Givenchy in Paris, replacing John Galliano, who went to Christian Dior. McQueen and Galliano thus spearheaded an assault on Paris-based fashion by young British designers in the 1990s, and their iconoclastic imagery and show techniques did much to boost a flagging French business (Evans). While he toned down the rougher edges of his style for Givenchy, in both the Givenchy and McQueen collections he continued to develop themes that had been with him since graduation. Darkly romantic, with a harsh vision of history and politics, McQueen's approach differed from the more straightforwardly romantic output of Galliano or Vivienne Westwood (Evans).
McQueen sold a controlling share in his business to Gucci in December 2000 and left Givenchy early in 2001, continuing to show under his own name in Paris rather than London. On February 11, 2010, McQueen, at the age of forty and reportedly in despair at the recent death of his mother, took his own life, sending waves of shock and sorrow through the international world of fashion. After his death, McQueen's long-term assistant Sarah Burton was named as the new creative director of Alexander McQueen.
He was awarded the Master of Arts degree in 1992. After his graduation in 1992 McQueen founded his own fashion label, using his middle name, on the advice of the stylist, then Vogue editor, Isabella Blow. Blow was hugely influential in McQueen’s early success, buying his entire MA collection, and she went on to become his great friend and advisor (Alexander McQueen). McQueen played up to his bad-boy reputation, opening himself to accusations of misogyny in his Highland Rape collection, which featured apparently bruised and battered models staggering along an apocalyptic, heather-strewn runway (Evans).
In October he was appointed designer in chief at Givenchy in Paris, replacing John Galliano, who went to Christian Dior. McQueen and Galliano thus spearheaded an assault on Paris-based fashion by young British designers in the 1990s, and their iconoclastic imagery and show techniques did much to boost a flagging French business (Evans). While he toned down the rougher edges of his style for Givenchy, in both the Givenchy and McQueen collections he continued to develop themes that had been with him since graduation. Darkly romantic, with a harsh vision of history and politics, McQueen's approach differed from the more straightforwardly romantic output of Galliano or Vivienne Westwood (Evans).
McQueen sold a controlling share in his business to Gucci in December 2000 and left Givenchy early in 2001, continuing to show under his own name in Paris rather than London. On February 11, 2010, McQueen, at the age of forty and reportedly in despair at the recent death of his mother, took his own life, sending waves of shock and sorrow through the international world of fashion. After his death, McQueen's long-term assistant Sarah Burton was named as the new creative director of Alexander McQueen.
Critical Analysis
Alexander McQueen is definitely an icon in the fashion world. His designs are one of a kind, unlike anything else we see down the runway. His imagination is endless, and that is clear in all of his designs. In his spring 2007 collection, a dress constructed almost entirely out of fresh flowers that fell to the floor as the model walked down the runway. “Things rot. It was all about decay. I used flowers because they die," said McQueen (Bazar). In this particular collection I can see how he was greatly influenced by Charles Frederick Worth. His red floral dress with a crinoline, just like Worth used in his designs.
His interest has never been in pleasing the media, on the contrary, he likes to shock woman with his controversial designs. He creates garments that are either no longer in style, or he innovates new designs such as “the outrageously low-cut pants he called “bumsters” (Middleton).
Alexander McQueen’s work reflects the zeitgeist, not of the time he designed, but of earlier years. When designing for Givenchy he brought back the strong shouldered 1980 silhouette (Middleton). Even though, the years he designed were the 1990’s and 2000’s, he liked to bring bold elements used in the years past. In his collections he has always shown a reflection of himself and what he believes in. Being that he is so outrageous and unique in his designs, I cannot see how any specific designer would influence him. His designs have elements that show an influence from various designers. I see a lot of Galliano’s influence in his past collections. The romanticism, and red florals remind me a lot of Valentino’s runways as well. Alexander McQueen is an icon because even though he has passed away, he has left a giant mark in the fashion industry. There are not many designers in any generation with the ability to do what McQueen did, which is to marry a rich and epic imagination with mind-blowing technical skill (Larocca).
His interest has never been in pleasing the media, on the contrary, he likes to shock woman with his controversial designs. He creates garments that are either no longer in style, or he innovates new designs such as “the outrageously low-cut pants he called “bumsters” (Middleton).
Alexander McQueen’s work reflects the zeitgeist, not of the time he designed, but of earlier years. When designing for Givenchy he brought back the strong shouldered 1980 silhouette (Middleton). Even though, the years he designed were the 1990’s and 2000’s, he liked to bring bold elements used in the years past. In his collections he has always shown a reflection of himself and what he believes in. Being that he is so outrageous and unique in his designs, I cannot see how any specific designer would influence him. His designs have elements that show an influence from various designers. I see a lot of Galliano’s influence in his past collections. The romanticism, and red florals remind me a lot of Valentino’s runways as well. Alexander McQueen is an icon because even though he has passed away, he has left a giant mark in the fashion industry. There are not many designers in any generation with the ability to do what McQueen did, which is to marry a rich and epic imagination with mind-blowing technical skill (Larocca).
Analysis of Future Trends
(vogue.com)
"There are only a handful of designers that influence other designers, and I have to keep one step ahead of the game."
After Alexander McQueen's passing I believe that many up and coming designers will be greatly influenced by him. Sarah Burton is definitely inspired by what McQueen designed before she became creative director for his brand. Mcqueen created his lasting signature skull chifon scraf. Nearly every celebrity in the public eye has been seeing one of his famous skull scarfs. I happen to own one of these faboulous scarfs. It is a definite staple in my wardrobe and I love it. Alexander McQueen created trends, he set them and was unique. He believed in pushing himself and keeping up or creating new trends, and this was all clear in his runway shows.
"As a designer, you've always got to push yourself forward; you've always got to keep up with the trends or make your own trends. That's what I do."
Works Cited
Alexander McQueen. 19 November 2012 <http://www.alexandermcqueen.com/alexandermcqueen/experience/biograpaphy>.
Bazar, Harper's. Alexander McQueen: In His Own Words. <http://www.harpersbazaar.com>.
Evans, Caroline. McQueen Alexander The Berg Fashion Library. 2005. November 2012 <http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com/view/bazf/bazf00394.xml>.
Larocca, Amy. Long Live Mcqueen. 14 February 2010. 19 November 2012 <http://nymag.com/fashion/10/spring/63809/>.
style sequel. 19 November 2012 <http://www.stylesequel.com/designers/alexander-mcqueen/biography>.
Middleton, William. “The World Of Mcqueen.” Harper’s Bazaar 3497 (2003): 184. MasterFILE Premier. Web. 9 Nov. 2012.
Bazar, Harper's. Alexander McQueen: In His Own Words. <http://www.harpersbazaar.com>.
Evans, Caroline. McQueen Alexander The Berg Fashion Library. 2005. November 2012 <http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com/view/bazf/bazf00394.xml>.
Larocca, Amy. Long Live Mcqueen. 14 February 2010. 19 November 2012 <http://nymag.com/fashion/10/spring/63809/>.
style sequel. 19 November 2012 <http://www.stylesequel.com/designers/alexander-mcqueen/biography>.
Middleton, William. “The World Of Mcqueen.” Harper’s Bazaar 3497 (2003): 184. MasterFILE Premier. Web. 9 Nov. 2012.