Salvatore Ferragamo
(1898 - 1960)
Biography
Salvatore Ferragamo was a creative genius in 20th century footwear. Salvatore, the eleventh of fourteen children, was born in 1898 in Bonito, Southern Italy. At the young age of 16, after apprenticeships with the local shoemaker and a luxury shoe shop in Naples, he decided to join his brothers in the United States (Ricci). Sharing the destiny of many Italians who emigrated in pursuit of the American dream to escape poverty and unemployment at home. Salvatore then convinced his brothers to move to Santa Barbara on the West Coast, where the emerging film industry was creating potential for makers of luxury hand-made shoes.
He opened a small shoe repair and shoemaking shop and in the evening attended an anatomy course at the local university, driven by his desire to create not only beautiful shoes but ones that were also comfortable and functional (Ricci). The opportunity to make a name for himself came from one of his brothers, who worked as a prop man at the American Film Company and managed to get Salvatore his first order, for a batch of cowboy boots (Ricci). From then on, his shop was surrounded by film directors and stars of the silent movie era. When the film industry moved to Hollywood in 1923, Ferragamo followed it and opened a new shop, The Hollywood Boot Shop, in one of the main streets in Beverly Hills (Ricci). Salvatore died in 1960, leaving his wife and children a company whose name is a synonym for “Made in Italy” and luxury. To history, he left the models and inventions that did so much to shape fashion in the 20th century (Ricci).
He opened a small shoe repair and shoemaking shop and in the evening attended an anatomy course at the local university, driven by his desire to create not only beautiful shoes but ones that were also comfortable and functional (Ricci). The opportunity to make a name for himself came from one of his brothers, who worked as a prop man at the American Film Company and managed to get Salvatore his first order, for a batch of cowboy boots (Ricci). From then on, his shop was surrounded by film directors and stars of the silent movie era. When the film industry moved to Hollywood in 1923, Ferragamo followed it and opened a new shop, The Hollywood Boot Shop, in one of the main streets in Beverly Hills (Ricci). Salvatore died in 1960, leaving his wife and children a company whose name is a synonym for “Made in Italy” and luxury. To history, he left the models and inventions that did so much to shape fashion in the 20th century (Ricci).
Critical Analysis
Salvatore Ferragamo reflects the zeitgeist because it was an extraordinary fertile period. The opening of the frontiers after the Second World War and the resumption of normal trade marked the start of this abundant period, for all Italian design (Ricci). In the 50’s he was inspired by the opanke, the North American Indian moccasin, which brought the shell-shaped sole. He applied this concept extensively but the patent achieved fame thanks to a court shoe created for one of the world’s best loved actresses, Audrey Hepburn (Ricci).
After the war, when skirts began to reach the ankles and footwear became more stylized, under the influence of Christian Dior, he modified the “F” wedge heels and combined them with different embroidered materials, treated like linen work or lace (Ricci). You can say he was also greatly influenced by Marilyn Monroe, since he amplified her sensuality with her famous 11cm stiletto-heel pointed shoes that accentuated her hip movement when walking (Ricci).
Salvatore Ferragamo was and will always be a fashion icon. His patents changed the history of shoemaking, such as invisible sole stitching systems, methods for cutting uppers from a single piece of leather and decorating leather by abrasion of the top layer only.
After the war, when skirts began to reach the ankles and footwear became more stylized, under the influence of Christian Dior, he modified the “F” wedge heels and combined them with different embroidered materials, treated like linen work or lace (Ricci). You can say he was also greatly influenced by Marilyn Monroe, since he amplified her sensuality with her famous 11cm stiletto-heel pointed shoes that accentuated her hip movement when walking (Ricci).
Salvatore Ferragamo was and will always be a fashion icon. His patents changed the history of shoemaking, such as invisible sole stitching systems, methods for cutting uppers from a single piece of leather and decorating leather by abrasion of the top layer only.
Analysis on Future Trends
Ferragamo influenced many significant trends that will continue into the future. Of all his inventions though, perhaps the most important was the metal shank, a strong thin lightweight metal plate reinforcing the arch of the foot and replacing what in traditional Italian shoemaking had been made of leather or a leather by-product (Ricci). Another significant trend that Ferragamo influenced is the cork wedge heel. The wedge gave an artist like Ferragamo the chance to deploy his creativity over bigger surfaces than uppers and heels offer.
I believe Ferragamo created many lasting signatures in fashion history. His designs are still being worn by celebrities in the public eye, in red carpet events and all over the world. His family is keeping his name well recognized in the fashion world. I do own a pair of Salvatore Ferragamo flats. They are very comfortable and feature the signature Ferragamo bow in the front.
I believe Ferragamo created many lasting signatures in fashion history. His designs are still being worn by celebrities in the public eye, in red carpet events and all over the world. His family is keeping his name well recognized in the fashion world. I do own a pair of Salvatore Ferragamo flats. They are very comfortable and feature the signature Ferragamo bow in the front.
Works Cited
<www.ferragamo.com>.
Style Sight. <www.stylesight.com>.
Ricci, Stefania. Walking Dreams. Spain: D.A.P., 2006.
Style Sight. <www.stylesight.com>.
Ricci, Stefania. Walking Dreams. Spain: D.A.P., 2006.