Pierre Balmain
(1914 - 1982)
Biography
In 1914 Pierre Alexandre Claudius Balmain born in St-Jean-de-Maurienne, in the Savoy region of France. His father was a drapery wholesaler who dies when Pierre is seven. His mother, Françoise, dresses her son like Little Lord Fauntleroy—complete with Joan of Arc haircut—and runs a dress boutique called Galeries Parisiennes with her sisters (Voguepedia). In the year 1925 Pierre attends school in Chambéry and spends weekends with an uncle in Aix-les-Bains, where he meets society women who encourage his passion for couture (Voguepedia). However, Balmain’s mother dreamed of her son becoming a doctor in the navy.
He moved to Paris in 1933, where he studied architecture. (Later, as an established designer, he will say, “I often react as an architect, and think as an architect. There is certainly a huge amount of common ground between an architect and a couturier” (Balmain.) The following year Pierre sold fashion sketches to Robert Piguet, then the artistic director of Redfern. He also found part-time employment at chez Molyneux. The year 1943 was a big year for Balmain. Meanwhile working for Lucien Lelong, he designed a black crepe afternoon dress named Little Profit for Lelong’s fortune-telling-themed collection. Three-hundred-and-sixty dresses were sold.
In 1945 Balmain hands in his notice at Lelong and rents a premises at 44 rue Francois 1er. His mother sells up and invests heavily in the new venture. On Friday 12th October, the Balmain label is born. After a slow start and hindered by the aftershock of the war, the debut collection features bell skirts and tiny waists (Bee). In 1947, at around the same time Balmain’s rival, Christian Dior launches the New Look, Balmain’s first fragrance Vent Vent is released.
Balmain’s signature pieces start to appear in 1950. He makes shift dresses popular and fur stoles acceptable for day (Bee). A year later, Balmain expands his label and the first store in American opens. Balmain’s designs were used in over 30 films between 1947-1971.
Pierre Balmain dies in 1983. Erick Mortensen, his longtime assistant becomes the label’s Creative Director and wins the De d’Or award twice (Bee).
He moved to Paris in 1933, where he studied architecture. (Later, as an established designer, he will say, “I often react as an architect, and think as an architect. There is certainly a huge amount of common ground between an architect and a couturier” (Balmain.) The following year Pierre sold fashion sketches to Robert Piguet, then the artistic director of Redfern. He also found part-time employment at chez Molyneux. The year 1943 was a big year for Balmain. Meanwhile working for Lucien Lelong, he designed a black crepe afternoon dress named Little Profit for Lelong’s fortune-telling-themed collection. Three-hundred-and-sixty dresses were sold.
In 1945 Balmain hands in his notice at Lelong and rents a premises at 44 rue Francois 1er. His mother sells up and invests heavily in the new venture. On Friday 12th October, the Balmain label is born. After a slow start and hindered by the aftershock of the war, the debut collection features bell skirts and tiny waists (Bee). In 1947, at around the same time Balmain’s rival, Christian Dior launches the New Look, Balmain’s first fragrance Vent Vent is released.
Balmain’s signature pieces start to appear in 1950. He makes shift dresses popular and fur stoles acceptable for day (Bee). A year later, Balmain expands his label and the first store in American opens. Balmain’s designs were used in over 30 films between 1947-1971.
Pierre Balmain dies in 1983. Erick Mortensen, his longtime assistant becomes the label’s Creative Director and wins the De d’Or award twice (Bee).
Critical Analysis
Balmain’s work reflected the zeitgeist of the World War II era. His label was born in 1945; right after the war was over. Balmain was associated with the style called “Jolie Madame. This was magnificently made, rather fitted elegant and luxurious fashions, that made women look pampered, prosperous and calm, was how The New York Times explained it for its readers (Peterson).
“Good fashion is evolution, not revolution,” Pierre Balmain said in 1969. The haute couturier was by then something of a legend, dressing royalty of both the genuine kind (notably Queen Sirkit of Thailand) and the Hollywood kind (Marlene Dietrich, Vivien Leigh, Sophia Loren) (Herald).
“Good fashion is evolution, not revolution,” Pierre Balmain said in 1969. The haute couturier was by then something of a legend, dressing royalty of both the genuine kind (notably Queen Sirkit of Thailand) and the Hollywood kind (Marlene Dietrich, Vivien Leigh, Sophia Loren) (Herald).
Analysis on Future Trends
Works Cited
Voguepedia. 2 Dec. 2012 <http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Pierre_Balmain>.
Balmain., Pierre. My Years and Seasons. London: Cassell & Co, 1964.
Bee, Deborah. Couture in the 21st Century. London: Harrods Publishing, 2010.
Herald, The Sydney Morning. "Couturier who elects to remain aloof." 22 Aug. 1969.
Ostier, André. vogue.com. Dec. 1945. Nov. 2012.
Peterson, Patricia. "Even Heim Plays Up Youthful Look." The New York Times 29 July 1964.
Style Sight. <www.stylesight.com>.
Balmain., Pierre. My Years and Seasons. London: Cassell & Co, 1964.
Bee, Deborah. Couture in the 21st Century. London: Harrods Publishing, 2010.
Herald, The Sydney Morning. "Couturier who elects to remain aloof." 22 Aug. 1969.
Ostier, André. vogue.com. Dec. 1945. Nov. 2012.
Peterson, Patricia. "Even Heim Plays Up Youthful Look." The New York Times 29 July 1964.
Style Sight. <www.stylesight.com>.